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For the few motorists and others using the road to Birchy
Lake with the regulation shaded headlights in the dark there were
a line of square rocks painted white to mark the edge of the bank
down which one might land on the green or even slide towards the
River Taw. After the war these gradually disappeared, mostly rolled
down the green towards the river. Great fun, but not guilty! Most
transport was either bicycle or pony; the bicycle lamps also had
to have shades on them directing the poor light down to the ground.
No one wanted to provide a target for the Luftwaffe. There were
plenty of Dartmoor ponies around (or Dartmoor crosses), but the
biggest menace in the dark were the black cattle who liked to stand
in groups blocking the road. Such are the joys of roads open to
the moor. Seemingly always and till well after the war, the sheep
dogs would lie on the road outside Town Living oblivious to anything
that wanted to pass. Why is it that sheepdogs have charmed lives?
I also remember, in the blackout, one of our Special Constables
(who shall still remain nameless) thumping at the door because we
were showing a light. My mother politely pointed out that you could
only see the light by bending down below the window. She did not
add that the Luftwaffe did not fly quite that low!
The lanes were quite different during the war simply because the
hedges were not cut and the potholes were ignored. I grew up expecting
each lane to be a green tunnel. For instance as you went down to
Tongue End you suddenly came into the full light when you got to
the wide part, then back into the roadside vegetation until you
approached the main road. To see a lane being resurfaced after the
war was a real novelty.
Outside the gateway to Birchy Lake there was a sandbag shelter
by the gatepost on the Resugga lodge side of the road. I think if
you poke the earth there you will discover sand. Obviously Birchy
Lake was not being left undefended against the Nazis! Even then
the wooden gate had fallen out of use and was laid back against
the wall inside the gateway. A pity, as when we lived there we might
have been spared the sound of ponies trotting past in the night.
I suppose the age of the motor car had made it too much trouble
to open and close that gate.
One of my abiding memories when I was about five was watching my
mother and father driving through that gateway going out somewhere
in our large open Humber. I was at the upstairs middle window at
Birchy Lake with my nanny when our greyhound, Skelly, whom my father
had rescued, decided he did not want to be left behind and jumped
out of the window on to the glass conservatory roof whereupon he
was stuck. My nanny made valiant efforts to hook him with a walking
stick, but eventually Mrs Ball (later Lady Ball) came round with
a step ladder. To no avail. Eventually George Rutley, I think, managed
to lift him down. A great effort considering a greyhound is no small
dog and the edge of the conservatory roof must be a good seven feet
up. My father used to ride over to Okehampton Camp in the mornings
on a horse brought over by the groom as he was an Instructor in
Ginnery at the School of Artillery. That was what had brought us
to Belstone from Larkhill on Salisbury plain in rhe first place./Riding
across the moor via Cullever's Steps was a much shorter route and
probably just as quick. No petrol required.
Later, when we were living at Great Down, I remember a German fighter
banking very low overhead, probably being pursued. It was so low
that I could see the pilot's head quite clearly in his flying helmet.
He climbed steeply up over Cosdon and I think was shot down. I could
see little sparks of light from a pursuing plane when they were
high up. I wonder what he was doing there? Probably escorting bombers
to Plymouth. We certainly heard the drone of German bombers flying
over from time to time. The sound remains with me now.
For some time I went to school in what had been the Brenamoor Hotel.
The junior department of St George's School, Harpenden had been
evacuated there and so was convenient for a few locals. I remember
seeing the gilded script letters of the hotel name stored in the
garage. If I remember rightly the word "Brenamoor" was
re-erected after the war without "Hotel".
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| In those days, when petrol was so scarse, I recall
Mrs Carnegy from Cleave House, coming to visit us at Great Down with
her pony and trap. An eminently sensible way for local travel at the
time.
Great Down was well placed to explore the wonders of the leat.
This is now, sadly, but a faint trail but used to be a nice walk
from the village to Skaigh. It was built to supply power for the
mine half way down Skaigh hill and was used latterly for the water
supply to Skaigh House. Sometime near the end of the war it was
renovated by a gang of Italian POWs. The leat passed just below
the steps and gate from Great Down on to the open moor. For a small
boy this had all the attraction of mud, sticklebacks, leaches and
various other sorts of wild life. One leach was carried home in
a jam jar but decided to make it own way home overnight.
Next to us at Great Down, in The Rills, lived Elizabeth Schale,
a Swedish lady. Because she was not a British Citizen she was not
allowed to keep her horse during the war. Nevertheless she was a
familiar sight around the village as she used to go around collecting
War Savings.
I learnt to bicycle whilst at Great Down, before that it was tricycle
transport. Some kind soul had put American soldiers to camp on Brenamoor.
Fortunately they were sufficiently skilled in driving a Jeep fast
backwards to avoid a small boy on a tricycle. Brenamoor is hardly
recommended as a camping place for our allies.
Another tricycle ride was to the village to see the long line of
grey NFS (National Fire Service) fire engines parked down the road
after the Barton burnt down. (1943 I think). How fortunate that
Lady Haycraft managed to get out of the burning house right past
the cosy stove which ignited it. A pity, though, that the fire hydrant
under its metal cover in the road had not been maintained. If the
NFS had succeeded in getting water from it much less of the house
would have been gutted but the village saved all the furniture.
The nearest alternative water supply was Brenamoor! Unfortunately
war regulations prohibited temporary repairs and as the house was
all cob above the ground floor the ancient but unroofed cob disappeared
by the end of the war.
We all relied on Moorlock's shop for our rations. The Moorlocks
Austin 7 saloon, with its yellowed triplex windows, did sterling
war service piled up with people's rations going round as a delivery
vehicle driven by Blanche Moorlock, Cyril was away at the war. Before
the Austin 7 Cyril had a traditional delivery bike with "Moorlock
& Son" sign written upon it. How is it that in war time
one got much better service from shop, butcher, baker milk, post
etc than in the 21st Century? Some may remember that there was another
very small shop built into the hedge bank of the Court just by the
stocks.
Belstone was notable for forms of transport in the war years and
for some time after. First place must go to George Chastey's splendid
Austin car used as his taxi. Even by the 1940s a car where the passengers
sat enclosed and the driver had a roof but no side windows, had
become old fashioned. He did have detachable side screens which
he put up in very bad Winter weather. This splendid and usually
reliable vehicle, which was started by a permanently attached crank
handle, was described by Sir William Ball as having two speeds;
dead slow and stop. Then there was to be seen John Endacott standing
up in a smart riding mac on his two wheeled cart. As a small boy
on a tricycle I was often spoken to by old Will Reddaway who seemed
to me to be permanently attached to the saddle of his horse. Then,
of course there was Rector, Mr ? James who rode everywhere including
through the Arcade in Okehampton. When he rode into the Bank rumour
had it that that was a hoof too far! If Mr James was short of time
after the Sunday service at Sticklepath, he would ride directly
to Belstone Church, tying up his pony at the Church gate. The pony
was, of course, normally stabled at the Rectory.
Youngsters from about twelve upwards would walk into Okey led by
Michael McCrum, later Headmaster of Eton, to visit one of the two
cinemas, Carlton and Premier, and afterwards walk back having stopped
off for fish and chips, or probably just chips, at the end of the
Arcade. I was too young, but I do remember being taken from school
to the Carlton to see a performance of Henry V with Laurence Olivier.
One projector was a bit brighter than the other. When we got to
King Henry going round his army's camp fires after dark, unfortunately
we were on the duller projector.
The van den Arends might well have the record for living in the
greatest number of houses in one village. We managed Birchy Lake
(twice), Dagworthy, Great Down, Langmeads, the Mine House, Lopes
House and the Barton. Before all that we lived for while in a bungalow
next to the Barton Garage on the main road which had been commandeered
as a meat store. It is now replaced by a service station.
Christopher van den Arend.
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